Hermoupolis, Syros

With crystal-clear and safe to swim waters, organized beaches or remote unspoiled coves and a brilliant blend of architectural styles on the famous arid Cycladic scenery, Syros is an island of grand contrasts; The splendor of the vibrant neoclassical wonder of its capital town Hermoupolis, the charming Cycladic flair of the medieval settlement of Ano Syros, the countryside with quiet villages boasting sumptuous villas, picturesque settlements and resorts by the sea, all glorify a unique culture against the backdrop of the alluring scenery of the Cyclades archipelago. 

With a history woven over several millennia, as the earliest evidence traces back to the Early Bronze Age, Syros is a fascinating realm of golden times and times of decline, triumphs and transformations. The Greek War of Independence against the Ottoman rule was the milestone that marked the start of yet another new chapter in the history of the island. Hermoupolis was born in the early 1820s within the blaze of the Revolution as refugees arrived in search of safety from the Ottoman wrath. The newcomers created their town rapidly transforming it into a major international trading and transit centre with commanding economic and cultural influence. Renowned architects were hired to create a town in glorification of neoclassical beauty with glorious mansions, marble piazzas with palm trees, impressive public buildings and exquisite town planning. At the turn of the 19th century, a new era began focused on manufacturing, textiles industry and ship building. 

Today, Hermoupolis stands proudly as a landmark of neoclassicism beckoning architecture enthusiasts to embark on a journey through its heritage. Reflecting the wealth and influences of Romanticism and Neoclassicism, lordly mansions flourishing in expensive details tumble with immense grace down the hill to the azure waters of the Aegean or overhang the sea rightfully demanding admiration. 

The jewel in the crown of Syros is the majestic Town Hall of Hermoupolis. Designed by the influential architect Ernst Ziller, the 19th-century architectural masterpiece of palatial proportions was, clearly, built to convey the message of wealth and power. The Town Hall dominates the Miaouli Square, one of the most remarkable 19th century squares of Greece. Flanked by imposing neoclassicals, the square is the heart of Syros with palm trees, a marble music stage dedicated to the ancient Greek god of music Apollo and the statue of the admiral from the War of Independence Andreas Miaoulis. Here, the Archaeological Museum of Hermoupolis, one of the oldest museums in Greece, the Municipal Library with a valuable collection of more than 45,000 books, the Cyclades’ Archive and the Culture Center are open to visitors. Here, charming cafés offer the opportunity to take a pause and indulge in some people watching.

Hermoupolis is bursting with landmarks like the Apollo Municipal Theater, the Byzantine-Neoclassical Temple of Saint Nicholas, the emblematic quarter Vaporia (Greek for Ships) where mighty shipowners built neoclassical mansions perched on the edge of cliffs seemingly hovering over the sea, the most popular urban beach Asteria, the monumental buildings of the Custom Office and the Transit Warehouse and the School of Mercantile Marine on the waterfront promenade, the former "Hellas Club" of the mighty bourgeoisie which now hosts the Culture Center with the Cycladic Art Replicas Exhibition. 

At the neighboring hill stands Ano Syros. The Cycladic citadel of the later Byzantine era is situated high above the Aegean Sea on a conic hill. Small quaint houses with tiny terraces draped in canopies of bright bougainvillea are built one next to the other. Narrow cobbled alleys and covered passageways lead to the top to the Church of Saint George and the Monastery of the Capuchin Fathers. The panorama of the sea, tiny cafés and tavernas, shops with local artisan creations and must-see attractions like the Historical Archive of Ano Syros, the Exhibition of Traditional Professions and the house dedicated to Markos Vamvakaris, one of the most influential Greek rebetiko musicians, are some of the must-see here.

To unwind on a sunbed mingling with trendy crowds by the sea, drive along the coastline at the southern part of Syros. Cosmopolitan beaches like Agathopes and Galissas offer sun loungers, cafes, restaurants and tavernas. Megas Gialos, Vari, Azolimnos or Kini are popular for their shallow waters and family friendly reputation. If you are into water games and sports or looking for a marina to moor your boat, the long sprawling beach of Finikas is your place. If low-profile, yet popular, beaches attract you, Komito, Ambela, Achladi, Delfini, Lotos and Kokkina are all good choices. If finding that perfect mix of sand, sparkling sea and few people is your dream, then the northern coastline should be your choice. Accessible by boat, or by walking along a footpath over and down the hill that few people make the effort, the scenery is unspoiled with remote beaches like Aetos, Lia, Varvaroussa, Marmari, Gria Spilia and Grammata where the turquoise water is calm and inviting.

To discover the rest of what Syros has to offer, wander to the island’s interior; dotted with scenic villages, like Episkopio - on a hill slope with imposing 19th century mansions - or Poseidonia - by the sea with grand manors built by the elite of the past - and Chroussa - with majestic mansions and estates with pavilions. Drive through winding mountain roads up to the North to experience the rugged landscape with secluded tiny beaches and views along hiking paths. Reach the northern tip of Syros, to visit the prehistoric sites of Chalandriani and Kastri, both considered as the most important fortifying construction of the 3rd millennium BC in the Aegean. Both sites are of major value to archaeologists as the excavations brought to light important findings of the Early Cycladic culture and art, indicating a flourishing society dating back to the late Neolithic era, between 4000 and 3000 BC.

When in Syros…

Spanning millennia of history, Syros honours its heritage passing down recipes from one generation to the next. Here, gastronomic Cycladic flavours are brought about by local ingredients and, since the people love to experiment, with new refreshing touches. From traditional family-run eateries to modern restaurants and upscale fine dining, tavernas and grill houses, the food scene is quite vibrant. Fresh fish and seafood, sun-dried tomatoes, top dairy products, and thyme honey are some of the stars in this junction of Aegean cuisines. 

One of the best ways to explore Syros’ food culture is to visit Hermoupoli's bustling market. So, when you are on the island, start with the stars; Loukoumi, the iconic trademark of Syros, the celebrated P.D.O. cheese San Michali, Louza (special dry cured ham), the local fennel sausage made from pork meat and fennel, sun-dried tomatoes, caper buds and the amazing thyme honey, rock samphir